Frequently Asked Questions

Here are the answers to the most common questions we get.

The bubble you see at the bottom right corner of your screen opens up some messaging options (Facebook Messenger and SMS) for you to get hold of us so, if you can’t find the answer to your question, please send us a message and we’ll get back to you asap.

In practice, LPG is supplied out of a bottle and Natural Gas is supplied by the mains.

Chemically, they have a different gas composition and that is the reason why hot water systems work with either one or the other.

Some models have a switch that allows the unit to accept both types of gas.

Of course you can. The “bubble” in the bottom-right corner of your screen gives you a few options on how to contact us.

A straight like-for-like replacement is one where your current unit is no longer working or it is underperforming and we replace it with one of the same type and size (or bigger provided your piping allows it) in the same location. Sometimes minor copper piping rerouting is required, but that’s all included in the price.

As part of the replacement, we also change the hot and cold water valves.

You can do either but you don’t need to pay to book. If you’re more comfortable with paying us once the job is completed, simply select “Cash on Delivery” or “Pay by Card on job completion” at checkout.

After you place an order, we will contact you asking you to send us a picture of your unit. This will give us an idea of what we need to take with us for the job and help us make sure make sure you placed the order for the right unit.

After that, we’ll contact our supplier to verify their availability for the ordered unit. Should they have no stock available within the required timeframe, we’ll let you know and provide you with an alternative solution.

Once we have a plan of attack, we will see you on the scheduled date and time to install your new hot water system.

The reason why we can’t give you a quick online quote for new installations (new builds, etc.) and swaps between types of systems (i.e. heat pump to gas, gas to electric, etc) is because, unlike straight replacements, your piping may need to be modified to cater for the new system.

Since copper pieces are extortionate (sometimes $30-40/m depending on sizing), quotes may vary between one situation and another.

Some swaps and new installations will also require some electrical work by an electrician (i.e. the addition of a power point, or connection to the meter box, etc.)

Hot water systems all achieve the same thing: heating your water and delivering it to you. They either heat the water up on demand (i.e when you open the hot water tap) as it goes through the system and send it straight to you, OR they heat the water up, store it in a tank and send it to you when you ask for it.

The heating part happens with electricity, gas or sun. It’s a simple transfer of energy from the electricity, gas or sun to the water which, in turn, heats up. Which type of system you choose depends on your preference and/or situation.

Power/electricity is what heats up the heating element which, in turn, heats up the water.

The higher the power rating, the quicker the water gets heated up.

The big water heaters have high power ratings because they have a large mass of water to heat up. Some of them even have two heating elements to facilitate that.

The small ones can have high power ratings not because they have large mass of water to heat up, but they need to quickly replenish the hot water as it gets used up.

The power rating you can go for depends on the wiring you have available to feed the water heater.

Some electric water heaters are powered through a power cord plugged into a standard power point; others need to be hard-wired due to the fact that a standard power point can't handle the current required.

Most continuous flow units also need a source of electricity to ignite the gas that heats up the water; others (commonly referred to as "hydro's") use water flow through a small hydrostatic generator to create the spark required to ignite the gas, so they don't need a power supply.

No problem at all.

Give us a call and we’ll get the order refunded and, if you wish, help you choose the right unit for you.

Remember, there is no need to pay anything in advance. If you’re unsure, just select one of the payment options that allow you to pay in person later, once the job is completed. Once the order is placed, we will contact you to make sure it is indeed the right unit for you.

In short, if yours is an indoor installation for a storage unit:

- Safety tray: by Code, YES, and its contents redirected to a drain.

- Safety shut-off valve: if the safety trays contents are redirected to a drain, then NO, you don’t need it. If that is not possible or not feasible, then YES.

It’s all well and good to have a safety tray to catch any leaks but no safety tray will ever be big enough to catch all the water within a unit. In addition, as the water leaks out, the unit will keep replenishing it, making the leak virtually infinite, or until you notice it. The tray buys you some time to notice the leak and shut off the water manually.

The safety shut-off valve is placed at the bottom of the tray and shuts off the water to the unit for you automatically when it senses water in the tray. Of course, depending where the leak is, the water will keep on leaking and the tray won’t be able to catch it all, but it will buy you some extra time and the unit won’t keep getting filled with more water that will eventually leak out.

They are both cheap insurance in situations where leaks can develop and are left unnoticed for a long period of time (e.g. holidays, periods away from home, etc.)